Racalia has produced another outstanding oil in a difficult year for olive-growers in western Sicily. A cold wet spring in 2023 led to problems with pollination. This was followed by excessive heat in summer and a drought that lasted through until harvest-time. Many olive-farmers did not bother to harvest their crop. In those circumstances, the quality of Racalia's olive oil in 2023 is utterly remarkable – it is always of an exceptional high standard but, even against that background, one of the best of recent years.

All olive oils with a Protected Designation of Origin must be submitted to a panel of professional tasters for assessment. They are required to ensure that an oil is free from defects and that its taste conforms to statutory expectations. This involves judging the oil for the degree of its fruitiness, bitterness and pepperiness. Each is marked out of ten, and fruitiness must dominate because it is what gives an oil its taste.

Racalia's 2023 oil is exceptionally fruity – I rate it at about seven on the scale of 1 to 10 – and I do not remember a better year for sheer flavour. Bitterness is only apparent after an oil has been swallowed – it is sensed at the back of the tongue and is highly valued, provided it does not overwhelm the fruitiness; pepperiness is the aftertaste that, if strongly present, may make people cough. But Racalia's 2023 harvest is essentially a fruity oil, with bitterness and pepperiness at no more than two on the scale of 1 to 10.

Racalia's 2023 oil gives off a strong but complex aroma of tomato, grass, banana and sweet almonds – nicely balanced and very inviting. The fruity taste confirms its excellence. There is a gentle hint of banana, asparagus, grass and almonds again; these are characteristic of the olives grown in western Sicily, especially the Cerasuola cultivar which is full of polyphenols and ensures a long shelf-life. But what is remarkable is that the taste of Racalia's 2023 oil lasts very long on the tongue – a sure mark of excellence.

It is always a great pleasure to taste a truly great olive oil, especially in a difficult year like 2023. Professional tasters mark an oil out of ten. I put Racalia's 2023 oil at 8.5/10 because of its balance, freshness and long-lasting taste. It is, quite simply, delicious.